Enthusiasm

I guess we all have them – those days when we just overdo it, and then at the end of them we are a bundle of exhaustion, curled up on the living room couch, watching Samantha Who? and wishing we had had a little less fun. Well, today was such a day. I went in the morning and “surfed” for 2 hours – and then went again this evening. After an hour I was beat, and I had barely been able to catch a wave (three of them, to be precise). Continue reading

Surfing as a Sport?

I recall the one time I took the train to get from L.A. to San Diego. It was a very pleasant ride along the Southern California coast line, touching surf break upon surf break. Everywhere I’d see people getting into their black wetsuits by the trunks of their cars and running happy towards the waves. There, they’d join a multitude even on a workday morning, and all of them would bob on the waves, sitting on the board bored until a good wave would come. Continue reading

PSA: Don't Swim or Surf After a Storm!

[Note: If you want to find out current water quality information, head over to http://www.sdbeachinfo.com/] I recall my first days of surfing. I was young(er than now), dumb (as much as now), and certainly had no idea what I was doing. I would go out on a closeout six foot day, paddle until exhaustion, and give up as soon as my stubborn self had reached the lineup. Literally: I’d be sitting there after 30 minutes of non-stop paddling, and just wait for the next large wave to push me back ashore. Continue reading